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The Basics

Shooting : The Commandments
101 Tips to make shooting with your camcorder easier.

Remember to take the lens cap off. In the rush of setting everything up for a shot you would be surprised at the number of people who set the camera recording with the lens cap still on. Even the pros can do it.

Always record 5 seconds before and after the shot you want. Editors like a bit of space to to roll into the scene. Your editor will hate you if you don't have enough, and if you don't have an editor you will hate yourself even more.

Use manual focus if at all possible. Autofocus hunts for stuff to focus on, so if someone walks through the shot it will try and focus on them, getting your subject out of focus. Autofocus also uses up a lot of battery power, so using manual focus and push focus (a button you can press for autofocusing) makes your batteries last longer. Whatever, make sure your subject is in focus. To be absolutely sure, zoom in on the subject, focus, and zoom out.

Leave that zoom rocker switch alone! See that button that rests just underneath your fingers when you hold the camera? That's your ticket to bad film-making. Zoom in, go on. When you watch your film most of your audience will be sick because the zoom is constantly tromboning in and out. Only use the zoom when the shot must have it and use it as sparingly as possible.

Try not to appear in your own film - Unless of course you are Hitchcock or your actor has called in sick and you're having to play the role yourself you want to try and avoid appearing in your film as...the camera operator! Avoid fingers near the lens or long hair draping into shot. Equally be careful when shooting through glass, mirrors or shiny objects not to catch a view of yourself. Use a polarizing filter to cut down on any reflection.

Check your sound - Most cameras have headphone sockets so you can monitor what the camera is picking up. Recording without checking your sound is like shooting and not looking down your viewfinder. Remember : your ears are great (they can filter out all that extra noise and focus in on just one voice) - your camera isn't, it'll pick up on every squeak and rumble.

Use an external mike if possible - To get better sound get your hands on an good external microphone that plugs into your camera. This should cut down on operating noise from the camera and you can pick a mike for the job at hand. Doing street interviews? Get an unidirectional mike to cut down on all that traffic noise (if your camera has any kind of handle tie your flex around this, so if your interviewer yanks on the cord the mike isn't pulled out). Drama? Try a supercardoid mike and mount it on a broom and get someone to hold it in front of your actors.

Muff your microphone - If you know you're going to be shooting in a windy place get a wind muff for your mike. Wind muffs are basically furry things that fit over your mike, that cut down on the roar you will hear if filming in wind. The other day I stuck my camera out of a car window and the sound I got was like ground zero at a nuclear blast!

Protect your equipment - You've got to keep it safe from two things - the environment and from it getting nicked. Keep your gear clear from dust and dirt (use a cover to protect it from the rain) and screw on a skylight filter to protect the lens. Clean the lens/filter and viewfinder using blower brushes, air jets etc. Security! Keep your camera close to you, make sure its insured and know its serial number if it does get pinched.

Tape Care - Always use the best quality tape you can afford (usually metal evaporated). You can only capture an event on tape once. The great thing about tape is that you can record over stuff but be careful you may need footage again in the future. Remember, keep all your rushes! Always use the same brand tape. The tape is basically the same in the same grade but the lubricant is quite different and mixing them can cause a sticky gum to build un inside your camera.

Batteries - Always carry fully-charged extra batteries, otherwise you can bet that you will lose power halfway through the most important shot of your film. Bear in mind that batteries have a shorter life span in the cold. Hug put them inside your coat in the winter to keep 'em warm.

Shoot loads! - Tape is cheap. Use it. When you get around to editing you might just need a certain shot, so shoot everything. Shoot plenty of cutaways (shots to cut in at any point - close ups, buildings, reactions of other people). Don't tell your actors, but shoot practice takes (you might need to put a bit of gaffer tape over the recording light or if you can just turn it off) sometimes they are the best, most natural take.

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video cam devider

The Basic Elements of Videography
Camera
: In film making multiple cameras (multiple camera positions of a single camera) are often used. In editing phase scenes/shots are assembled in a way that the story is told in an effective way.


Types of shots: The followings are types of shots commonly used in film, video, and animation.

1. Shots with different shot sizes. One of the major distinctions among types of shots is the shot size. The shot size identifies how large and area will be visible within the frame. Among the following common shot sizes the distance between the camera and subject varies.

  • Extreme wide shot (EWS) shows a broad view of the surroundings around the character and coveys scale, distance, and geographic location.
  • Wide shot (WS) shows an entire character from head to toe.
  • Medium wide shot (MWS) shows a character usually cut off across the legs above or below the knees. It is wide enough to show the physical setting in which the action is taking place, yet it is close enough to shot facial expression.
  • Medium shot (MS) shows a character's upper-body, arms, and head.
  • Close-up shot (CU) shows a character's face and shoulders. It is close enough to show subtle facial expressions clearly.
  • Extreme close-up shot (ECU) shows only a part of a character's face. It fills the screen with the details of a subject.



extreme wide shot


wide shot


medium wide shot


medium shot


close-up shot

extreme close-up shot

The images are from "The Art of Technique: An Aesthetic Approach to Film and Video Production"
by John Douglass and Glenn Harnden


Notes: Indecisive cut and shock cut
When cutting from a shot to another shot of a different shot size (e.g., from a wide shot to a medium wide shot) while framing the same subject, the difference in image size must be decisive. If the size of the subject does not change sufficiently, you will get the unpleasant effect of an indecisive cut and the audience will perceive it as a mistake or a distraction.

On the other hand, when cutting
from a shot to another shot of a significantly different shot size (e.g., from a wide shot to a close-up shot), you will produce a shock effect which is most likely inappropriate. The usual compromise is to have a shot of a shot size that is in between the sizes of the two shots (e.g., from a wide shot to a medium shot, and then to a close-up shot).


2. Shots with different camera angles.
Another one of the major distinctions among types of shots is the camera angle. Changing the camera angle changes the appearance and function of your shot.

Horizontal camera angles. Moving the camera around the subject horizontally while aiming at the subject creates different camera angles below:

  1. Frontal. The frontal angle tends to flatten the three dimensionality of facial features and environments.
  2. Three-quarter front. The three-quarter front angle is more often used than the frontal angle or profile because it shows more depth and volumes.
  3. Profile.
  4. Three-quarter rear.
  5. Rear.


Vertical camera angles
. Moving the camera around the subject vertically while aiming at the subject creates different camera angles below:

  1. High angle. The camera is placed above eye level, looking downward. A high angle shot can make a character look smaller, younger, weak, confused, or more childlike.
  2. Eye level. Most commonly used.
  3. Low angle. The camera is placed below eye level, looking upward. A low angle shot can make a character look bigger, stronger, or more noble. It also gives the impression of height.

high angle


low angle

The images are from "The Art of Technique: An Aesthetic Approach to Film and Video Production"
by John Douglass and Glenn Harnden

Note: Indecisive cut
When cutting from a shot to another shot with a different camera angle (e.g., from a frontal shot to a three quarter front), framing the same subject, the difference between the two camera angles must be greater than 35 degrees. If the difference is less than 35 degrees, and the appearance of the subject does not change sufficiently, you will get the unpleasant effect of an indecisive cut and the audience will perceive it as a mistake or a distraction.

3. POV shots. In a point of view (POV) shot, the camera is placed at the eye position of a character. (Birn, 8.2.4 POV Shots, pages 180-1)

4. Two shot & over-the-shoulder shot

  • Two shot shows two characters.
  • Over-the-shoulder shot is a close-up of a character as seen over-the-shoulder of another person in the foreground.

Two shot

Over the shoulder shot

180 degree rule
If you are using multiple cameras and plan to edit the different shots in a scene into a seamless sequence, an important rule to keep in mind is to place all the cameras on the same side of a line of action. A line of action is a path which your subject is traveling along or an imaginary line between two characters who are interacting. This rule is called "180 degree rule".

Look at the following camera placements:


If Camera 2 and Camera 3 are used, the audience stays on one side of the line of action. These shots are called
"reverse angle shots".



If Camera 2 and Camera 4 are used, the audience crosses the line of action. It's disorienting and confusing.

The images are from "The Five C's of Cinematography" by Joseph V. Mascelli



Camera moves
The camera position is often animated in computer animation for no good reason or no reason at all simply because the virtual camera can be moved easily. If you want to animate realistic and effective camera moves, study popular types of possible camera moves with a real camera. Try the following:

  • Pan. The camera rotates from side to side, so that it aims more to the left or right. The camera does not change the location.
  • Tilt. The camera rotates to aim upward or downward without changing the location. Tilt is sometimes called "pitch".
  • Zoom. The camera's lens is adjusted to increase or decrease the camera's field of view, magnifying a portion of the scene without moving the camera.
  • Dolly. The camera's actual position changes, such as to move alongside a moving subject or to travel closer to a character during a scene. Dolly in moves the camera closer to the subject. Dolly out backs the camera away from the subject. Dolly in and dolly out are sometime called "track".
The moves
The image is from "The Art of 3-D Computer Animation and Imaging" by Isaac Kerlow.

Dolly vs. Zoom
The difference between dolly and zoom is that when you dolly, you are moving the camera in space, while zoom refers to changing the camera's focal length. When you move the camera, the perspective changes. Objects far from the camera change in relative size at a slower rate than objects which are close to the camera. That is what you see through your human eyes as you walk around, your perspective changes. On the other hand, when you zoom (i.e., when you change the focal length of your camera), your camera does not move and perspective does not change.


Composition Rules: The followings are useful guidelines you can use when composing a shot.

1. Rule of thirds
Rule of thirds divides the frame into thirds both horizontally and vertically. The points where the vertical and horizontal lines cross are aesthetically pleasing spots to place subjects or to have perspective lines converge. It is usually best to avoid placing horizon lines exactly in the middle of a frame, but to place the horizon either above or below center, approximately one-third or two-thirds up the height of the frame.

Rule of thirds
Rule of thirds

The images are from "Digital Lighting and Rendering" by Jeremy Birn and "The Art of Technique"

2. Teeter-totter rule
Lighter weight can counterbalance a heavier weight if it is placed farther away from the center of the frame.

3. Avoid frontal angle
The frontal angle tends to flatten the three dimensionality of facial features and environments. Angling the shot produces more depth and volumes.

flat composition sense of depth
Shooting straight against walls produces flat compositions with little sense of depth in frame. Angling the shot into walls produces receding perspectives and a better sense of depth.

From "The book of Movie Photography" by David Cheshire  


[Top]

Video: Shooting Tips

By Andy Dickinson - 06 Jul
Andy as newspaper video, video http://www.andydickinson.net/2007/07/06/online-video-shooting-tips/

It’s been a slow start to the week blogging wise as I have been finishing up the last of my video training courses for newspaper journalists. I’m going to be doing a lot more of them, which is great as they really help me focus my thoughts on video, get me talking to journos on the ground and are great fun.

In that spirit I wanted to put down a few very basic points about video shooting that have become a core of what I tell people during the course.

These are, obviously, my own views not the universities. They also don’t reflect the policies of the papers I have dealt with. Not that they contradict. The positive thing is that at all the levels I have worked at newspaper people have been open to ideas. I just mean that you shouldn’t infer that these points represent the strategic approach of the groups I’m involved with.

The 5-10 rule.
Always let your camera record fro 5-10 seconds before you start and end action. Do the following:

  • Frame the shot
  • Set the camera recording and count to 10
  • Start the action (ask the first question etc)
  • Finnish the action and count to 10
  • Stop the camera recording

Why? Adding that time at the start and end means you will never cut off the start or end of the content you need. Also, most edit suites require a short pre-roll on the tape machine when they capture the footage.

In non technical terms, they like to take a run up to capture. That means that content right on the start of a shot is difficult or impossible to capture.

Auto controls
It doesn’t matter if they are sub 300 pounds consumer units or high-def camcorders, most cameras will have extensive auto control facilities. If you are going to get the best out of your camera then (when you can) do the following: Locate the Auto Lock function for your camera.

Know how to turn it off
Turn off the auto focus and learn how to focus manually.
The auto focus is often slow and easily fooled by passing objects. When shooting an interview on the street a person may walk in front of the lens. Your viewer will ignore it but your camera focus may be upset. Even a very quick refocus will distract your viewer and spoil the shot.

The general set up for each shot would be to set the camera to manual focus, zoom in as tight as you can go on your subject (person or object) and set the focus. Now, no matter how you frame the shot, the subject should stay in focus regardless of any passing distractions.

Know where all the other function controls are but never change them. You may never need to change them but at least you can if you need to.

Pans and zooms
Many people frown on movement in web video as it has an impact on visual quality and download time. It is worth considering but I like to come at it more from an editorial perspective.

Don’t zoom - move
If you need a tighter shot of something, don’t zoom. Get closer. Video is all about being there and experiencing it. Don’t just stand on the sidelines. Get in close.

Don’t move the camera just for visual variety move for content
Ask yourself where is the movement taking me and what do I see on the way. A close up of a security camera that zooms out to a wide shot of a car park tells me that this camera is watching the car park. You can imagine the script working with that shot. “Police are reviewing CCTV footage of the car park” . That is an editorial progression.

Hold the start and end of a move
The 5-10 rule works well here. Hold the shot at the start of a pan or zoom for 5- 10 seconds. Make the move and then hold the final shot for 5-10 seconds. That way if the move takes too long then you can cut between the shots.
Establish and detail.

A common complaint when editing is lack of general footage. When you are scripting you need related pictures to talk to and though you may shoot interviews and associated shots of subject many don’t shoot enough associated content so that you can set-up or expand on the story. A car crash in your local high street, for example, should be a simple story to tell but if you only have one shot of the crumpled car then its going to look pretty dull.

Shoot a wide shot that shows the viewer the scene and then shoot lots of detail. For the car example above I would shoot a wide shot of the car and then close-up shots of the damage.

Shoot more
When working in video that is going to be edited we refer to shooting ratios. How many minutes of footage will you need to create one minute of edited footage. News is often as low as 5:1 but documentary can be as high as 20-25:1. That means a good 5 minutes of varied footage to make one minute of entertaining content.
Don’t be slave to these figures but you would be surprised just how much you need so go ahead, waste some tape.

Framing a shot.

Learn how to frame an MCU properly
If you are doing a lot of interviewing then you only need to know one shot. It’s called the medium close up or MCU. When working on the web this should be you widest framing of a person. Any wider and you risk making their face too small in the frame.

An MCU is wide enough that we keep the subject big in the frame - big means important so important things need to be biggest in the frame - but it is editorially neutral. It allows us to see some background and the subject. Any tighter in the frame and we begin to make an editorial statement. We are focused on the subjects reactions, their emotional response.
Shoot a reverse when you have time.

A reverse is a shot of the interviewer asking a question or reacting to an answer (a noddie). You will see them commonly on TV where the shot flicks from interviewer and interviewee. Whilst they are often used to ‘re-create’ an interview they are more commonly used to hide an edit in a persons question. So if you see a person answering a question and then the camera cuts to a reporter nodding then you can be sure that they have edited the answers.

For that reason I was initially skeptical of this approach with web video. A reverse has become a trope for TV style. But I’ve become more pragmatic to the usefulness of a reverse for two reasons:

Conducting a good interview for video is a skill. A different skill from conducting a print interview. You cant hunt for quotes or use reported speech. You need self contained answers.

Secondly, you need a subject who can give that kind of answer if you want to cut out all of your questions and let the answers flow one in to the other.

Ideally you would structure the interview so that you could cut your questions out so that the content flows. But given the points above and the limited timescales that newspaper journos are working under, recording a set of reverses of your questions may speed the edit up and get the content out faster.

Don’t cross the line
When you shoot a reverse you can often fall foul of something called crossing the line (breaking the 180 degree rule). You will know what to avoid when you have done it. Everyone makes the mistake, even pro people will do it, so don’t feel bad.


VIDEO SURVIVAL GUIDE by Chuck Fadely

Here's what you need to know if your boss hands you a camera and tells you to do a video story:

IF YOU ARE SHOOTING TAPE, ALWAYS PRE-ROLL AND POST-ROLL: this is a REALLY IMPORTANT technical thing related to editing that will bite you in the ass if you don't follow the rules. This means:

1) ALWAYS record a minute of tape before starting. Video editing programs need extra space before and after the bit you want. (Pre-roll and post-roll!) Write down the story, date and your name on a piece of paper and tape that for 60 seconds. Or tape your cat for 60 seconds. This avoids tape dropouts that always happen at the beginning. It also reassures you that the camera works.

2) ALWAYS record at least 4 seconds before someone starts talking and at least another 4 seconds after they stop. (you can't capture the sound bite in the editing program otherwise. Pre-roll and post-roll!)

3) ALWAYS record a minute of tape after you've finished everything. Your cat is still fair game. (pre-roll and post-roll!)

4) REALLY REALLY REALLY IMPORTANT: Never break timecode! If you try to watch what you've recorded and then start recording again with even a half-second of blank tape in between, the piece cannot be edited. DON'T REWIND UNTIL YOU'RE DONE! NEVER! EVER!


RULES FOR SHOOTING VIDEO:

HOLD THE SHOT: Line up your shot in the viewfinder, press record, and then HOLD IT FOR TEN SECONDS. Don't pan. Don't zoom. HOLD THE SHOT. Count to ten! Even if we only need a second of it, hold the shot so it can be edited later.

SOUND is the most important thing in video. Record the interview sound separately from the images. Get the microphone within 12" of the person speaking and hold it still during the interview. Don't talk while the person is speaking -- nod but don't say "un hunh". The interview is called "A-roll" and will be the main sound track for the piece. Keep the subject's sentences short and sweet. Record the sound in a quiet place. Turn off the tv and radio. Air conditioners, traffic, and ringing phones are your enemy. Listen to the sound through headphones while you're recording.

IMAGES: Now that you've gotten the sound, take video of everything the person talked about. Shoot close, medium and wide of each thing. Hold each shot for 10 seconds. Let the subject move, not you. Don't pan or zoom. Get close. Brace against something so the camera doesn't shake. The images you shoot of whatever the subject talked about is called "B-roll" For a minute-long interview, you'll need dozens -- DOZENS -- of different B-roll shots related to what he's talking about. Shoot details, establishing shots, and activity. Shoot lots of shots of the subject doing things. Make sure you've got at least five different shots for each good sound bite. For example, if the subject says "Oh my god -- I can't believe we're alive! The car crashed right into the bedroom!", you'll need a wide shot of the house, a medium shot of the car in the wall, several shots from different angles of the car from both inside and out, close-ups of the bed, close-ups of the broken wall, details of family photos on the dresser with debris around, etc.

BE FOCUSED: Web videos need to be short -- one or two minutes. Pick one aspect of your story -- something with emotion -- and make the video about that. Keep it short.

FIND A CHARACTER: A successful video needs a 'character' to be the star -- find someone who is articulate and engaging, someone who makes quips and jokes -- and does them in short, sweet sound bites. Run-on sentences are death in video.

GET THE SUBJECT TO TELL THE TALE: Don't ask yes or no questions. Ask the subject to "describe" or "give me the background" or "tell me in short sentences" what happened. If they ramble, say "I'm not sure I understand. Tell me again about...." until they say it in a direct way. You need the 25-words-or-less version! See "BE FOCUSED" above.

DON'T STEP ON THE AUDIO: Don't start talking until they've stopped. Don't jump in immediately with another question after they've stopped speaking -- first, you need a break in between for editing, and second, people hate a vacuum and will sometimes volunteer really great stuff after they've directly answered the question.

Remember to pre-roll and post-roll! Don't hit the record/off switch until at least four seconds after they've stopped speaking.


180 Degree Axis rule and coverage.

180 degreeThe 180 Degree Rule is an important aspect of the film grammar. The Director's template has a tool for drawing in the 180 degree axis and it is worthwhile to get in the habit of drawing it in.

Crossing the 180 degree axis can be very confusing since the directions established for the viewer is changed. An example of this would be like watching a football game with the runner going to the right and all of a sudden we cut to him running to the left. It would make the viewer wonder if he was running the wrong way or not.

Another aspect of the 180 degree axis is that the closer to the axis the camera is, the more the viewer's point of view resembles the characters, and thus he feels WITH the character. This encourages the important identification with the characters which viewers should feel.

move 1 malt 2


Proper coverage close to the 180 Degree axis is this from THE MALTESE FALCON:
Notice how close to the axis these shots are. An example crossing the axis is seen in this same scene but with the Bogart shots flipped. Notice how confusing this can be:

Both characters are looking from Left to Right and seem to be looking off somewhere else.

Instead of standard "Coverage" showing the inter-relationship of characters, another method of SHOT/REVERSE/SHOT can be utilized where the character's Point of View is seen. Afred Hitchcock used this method extremely effectively to create a connection with the character. Basically the format is:

* 1) Show the character looking.
* 2) Show what the character is looking at and;
* 3) Show the character's reaction to what he is seeing.

This is sometimes referred to as the "Kuleshov Effect" since Kuleshov was an early Russian film theorist who suggested that what the character saw would affect what the audience thinks the character is feeling. His example is showing someone looking at some FOOD would suggest he was hungry, or a BABY that he is loving. Thus the director puts emotion into the actor's expressions. Buster Keaton films are full of this, and Keaton could show with a blink an entire range of emotion.
A classic SHOT/REVERSE/SHOT is seen in the Wonderful film SHERLOCK JUNIOR.


Traditional Film Camera Techniques

In film and video production the cinematographer sets the camera shots and decides what camera movement is necessary for a scene. An excellent way to learn how to be a cinematographer is to take filmmaking courses, since the methods of film cinematography are valid for computer animation.

One potential problem in computer animation is that animators try too much razzle dazzle with the camera - if the viewer notices the camera action too much then they won't really notice the animation. Since most viewers have already seen countless hours of film or video, if you use the camera in traditional methods then it adds rather than detracts from the experience.

The following are the camera elements in any scene:

Field of View

The Field of View (FOV) is the angle described by a cone with the vertex at the camera's position. It is determined by the camera's focal length, with the shorter the focal length the wider the FOV. For example, for a 35mm lens the FOV is 63 degrees (wide-angle), for a 50 mm lens it is 46 degrees (normal), and for a 135 mm lens it is 18 degrees (telephoto). A wide angle lens exaggerates depth while a telephoto lens minimizes depth differences.

pic 1

Standard camera shots using different length lenses

Shot

Visual Composition

Use

Extreme long shot

characters are small in frame; all or major parts of buildings appear

establishes physical context of action; shows landscape and architectural exteriors

Long shot

All or nearly all of the standing person; large parts of a building

shows a large scale action; shows whole groups of people; displays large architectural details

Medium shot

Character shown from waist up; medium-sized architectural details

small groups such as two or three people

Close-up

Head and neck of character; objects about the size of the desktop computer fill frame

focus on one character; facial expression very important

Extreme close-up

The frame filled with just part of a character or very small objects

facial features in a character or small objects


Transitions

In film or video scene consists of a sequence of shots. Each shot is made from a different perspective and then they are joined together. The joining together of the individual shots to make a particular scene is accomplished through transitions.
The transition may be from one camera angle to another camera angle or from one camera to another camera. When you do transitions as a CG animator you are fulfilling the role of   the editor, whose task is to put together a set of individual shots into a scene.   One technique that film editors use is to focus on a particular element that is consistent between shots. This can be a physical object or it can be a compositional element such as a motion, color, or direction.

The simplest transition between shots it is a straight cut, which is an abrupt transition between two shots. Another type of transition is called a fade, in which the overall value of the scene increases or decreases into a frame of just one color. For example, a fade to black may indicate the end of the sequence. When one scene fades out as another scene fades in this is a dissolve. These dissolves are used frequently to indicate a passage of time. For example, you might have a shot moving down a hall and then a dissolve as it moves into a different part of the building.

Another type of transition is when one scene wipes across the frame and  replaces the previous seen. Wipes can move in any direction and open one side to the other or they can start in the center and move out or the edge of the frame and move in. Wipes are very noticeable and best not used often.


Camera Angle

The camera angle helps to determine the point of view of the camera. This is very important since viewers have seen  much TV or film and this has conditioned them to interpret the cameras "eye level" as containing meaning. Viewers expect the camera to show a level horizon. If the camera is not then  it appears sinister to them. The cameras height above ground level and its angle in relationship to the ground should reflect real-life. A birds eye or worms eye view is unnatural and draws attention to itself. This may be all right if there's a reason. However, it may detract from the content of the animation. Something that is a problem in CG. is that the ease of   moving or putting a virtual camera anywhere may lead to excessive use of inappropriate camera angles.

A good idea is to observe existing film and video and to determine how far above ground level the camera is for a particular scene and use that information. For example, in a wide-angle shot the camera is usually in position of a viewer sitting down. In close-ups males are usually shown from just below eye level and females from just above eye-level. Placing a camera at the eye level of a standing person actually appears too high most of the time.


Camera moves

There are several fundamental camera moves that were developed right after the invention of motion picture cameras and are still used today.  Using a virtual camera you can make almost any move, however, it is still a good idea to use these  real world  moves.  These moves include the following:

Panning and Tilting
For both of these shots the camera is stationary and rotates in a horizontal (panning) or vertical (tilting) plane.
Panning  is used to follow a moving object or character, or to show more than can fit into a single frame, such as panning across a landscape.  It is also used as a transition between one camera position and another.

Inexperienced operators may pan too fast and caused an effect known as strobing.   This is also a problem in CG and is called tearing.  This can cause motion sickness or cause the illusion of motion to be broken.  For example, for an animation at 30 fps, the number of frames needed for a 45 degree pan would be about 22 frames for a quick turn or 66 frames for a casual turn.

One way to avoid strobing is to use scene motion blur when rendering.  This blur is done by sharing information between frames.  Note that this is a scene motion blur where a scene shares information from the prior and next scenes.  This is not the same as object motion blur.

The same motion considerations about panning are valid for tilting.

Dolly and Tracking shots

A dolly is a small wheeled vehicle, piloted by a dolly grip, that is used to move a camera around in a scene. A dolly shot is a move in and out of a scene, i.e., the movement is parallel to the camera lens axis. A tracking shot is a movement perpendicular to the camera lens axis. The key to these shots is to have realistic motion. The motion can be judged by looking at how fast humans move and then how many frames it would take to realize this motion. Examples of motion at different speeds are given in the table below.

 

Miles per hour

Feet per second

Number of Frames to move 10 feet at 30 fps

Casual stroll

2

2.9

102

Average walk

3

4.4

68

Brisk walk

4

5.9

51

Average jog

6

8.8

34

Average run

8

11.7

26

All out sprint

12

17.6

17

Car

30

44

7

It is also important to have realistically smooth starts and stops in your shots.

Crane or Boom shot. This is when the camera moves up or down, as if it were on a physical crane. The same considerations for panning and tilting apply for crane shots.


Zoom Lenses and the Vertigo Effect

A Zoom lens has a variable focal length and so camera "moves" can be made without actually moving the camera. Professional cinematographers use the zoom very sparingly and generally prefer to move the camera. Amateurs love the zoom and can create some very nauseating motion by combining zooms and rapid pans. A zoom changes the angle of display so spatial relationships also change.

In the movie "Vertigo", Alfred Hitchcock took advantage of this feature to create a what is now known as the vertigo shot. This involves synchronizing the movement of the subject with the zoom so that the subject is always the same size, but the background changes. Here is an example of a vertigo shot.


Depth of Field Effects

Real cameras have a depth of field, i.e., only part of the image is in focus at anyone time. The depth of field is a function of the lens length with short lenses (wide-angle) having a large depth of field and telephoto lenses have a small depth of field. Many CG cameras have an infinite depth of field, i.e., everything is in focus, and this looks unnatural. More advanced CG systems have cameras that emulate real lenses this way.

One way to change the center of attention in a scene is to have one object, e.g., in the foreground, in focus, with the background out of focus. Then an object in the background is brought into focus, with the foreground object now out of focus. For example, two people might be having a conversation in a crowded room and only they are in focus. Then the focus changes to reveal a person several feet away looking intensely at the two people. Here is an example prepared in 3D Studio Max 2.


In this first scene, the creature and Debbie are having an innocent conversation, with the center of focus and attention on them.

focus 1

Next we switch to focusing on the evil alien as he covertly observes their conversation.

focus 2

Source: http://www.siggraph.org/education/materials/HyperGraph/animation/cameras/traditional_film_camera_techniqu.htm

Last changed February 08, 2000 , G. Scott Owen, owen@siggraph.org


  • The most important component of a film is a good script. Unfortunately that happens only rarely.
  • Next in importance is a solid budget.
  • A good production team can make or break a film. Topping the list is the director and the cinematographer, followed by the set designer, costume designer, makeup artist, lighting specialist, grip, and editor. Overseeing it all should be a producer with a reputation for spending money wisely. Too many producers try to cut corners and save money by hiring less experienced (that is, cheaper) crew members.
  • The photographer's primary responsibility is to use the camera to tell the story well. Too many cinematographers get lost attempting to create brilliant and grand images.
  • A point that often gets neglected is the critical search for and selection of locations—be they cafes, apartments, or offices—to help give characters their correct motivation. The right settings bring life and depth to your characters.
  • In the post-production world, there is no longer any difference between film and video. Both now use nonlinear digital editors.

Source: http://www.samspublishing.com/articles/article.asp?p=169588&seqNum=4&rl=1


Joe Walsh's Event Shooting Tips
Joe Walsh and his team at Cinemagic Studios is a truly dedicated team, and has the confidence of a broad range of clients by meeting their unique needs and solving their communication problems. (http://www.cinemagicstudios.com).:

  • Make sure you have a clear understanding of your client's expectations and budget. Crew prices vary depending on the market. In Cinemagic's case, we charge $1,500 per day for a standard DVCAM or Beta SP camera package with a cameraman and an audio person.
  • Do a site check and rehearsal to determine the best camera locations. For two-camera remotes, it's best to have a back and front position. Place the cameras on risers so that you can shoot over people's heads. Position the cameras so that you don't "cross the plane" and shoot toward each other. Use the rehearsal to iron out details with the people in charge of the location.
  • Use multiple cameras and switch the event live to minimize editing afterward. Later, if the budget allows it, you can improve the product by tossing in some post-production editing and graphics. Cinemagic's remote multicamera setup includes a digital switcher, intercom system, audio mixer, studio recorder, and monitors for each camera crew, plus preview and program feed monitors. Budding producers take note: To buy the equivalent gear that we use for your own two-camera remote setup would cost about $75,000.
  • Always have the cameras record separate tapes. Even though we switch events live, if the technical director makes a bad switch or a cameraman makes an awkward move, we can fix it in post.
  • "Jam sync" all recorders before starting to record. Setting the timecode to match all recorders makes it much easier to find footage that you need if you have to fix something in editing (see Hour 21, "Real-World Applications and Third-Party Products," for a review of Multicam, a product that enables you to "live edit" multiple-camera shoots).
  • Have a pre-production meeting with your crew to discuss the project and assign their responsibilities. Onsite setup usually takes one hour for a single camera and two hours for multiple cameras. Make sure that all the cables are tucked away or taped down. After the setup, do a test record and playback check. During the event, we always monitor the audio and video signals.
  • Ensure that your location is well lit. For a lot of our events, the house handles the lighting, which makes our job a lot easier. If not, we typically turn to our basic light kit: a Lowel light system with two broad throw Tota lights and one wide-focus-range Omni to use as a key- or backlight.
  • Audio is crucial. When events handle their own audio, we take a line feed from their soundboard and use shotgun mics for backup and ambient audio. Otherwise, we rely on our standard mic kit: camera mic, shotgun, lavaliere, handheld, and PZM (pressure zone microphone, useful for a conference table with several speakers).
  • When using wireless mics, select UHF instead of VHF to avoid frequency conflicts. All sorts of fun stuff can go wrong with wireless mics. Your receiver can pick up other sources on your channel, such as radio stations (I always get country music), pizza delivery guys, or other wireless mics from local commercial TV stations. The UHF wireless mics have multiple channels at the higher MHz frequency range, so there is less chance of interference. Always keep fresh batteries on hand. As the batteries grow weak, reception problems occur.

    The Business of Video Production

    Sam Prigg's Tips on Starting a Video Production Company
    Sam Prigg, the "Head Wabbit" at White Rabbit Productions in Salt Lake City (http://www.whiterabbitproductions.com) has never taken himself too seriously. That hasn't stopped him from creating one of Utah's most successful video production houses. His client list and "statues," as he puts it, make that clear. He's worked for all the major networks, plus Disney, Apple, Intel, and many other big-name clients. During the 2002 Winter Olympics, he had eight crews working full-time for folks such as Jay Leno, David Letterman, and MTV. His "statues" include Emmys, ADDYs, Tellys, DuPonts, and "Most Improved" in bowling.

    Sam Prigg is one of the good guys. I thoroughly enjoyed working with him in the mid-1980s during my 4-year stint at KSL-TV in Salt Lake City. He has a degree in broadcast journalism and a minor in cinematography. For the first half of his 27-year TV and film career, he thought he was going to live and die working for a TV station. But then the business changed and so did he.

    Local news operations cut staff while adding news shows (news is relatively inexpensive programming), and TV networks found it was cheaper to make layoffs and hire local freelance crews instead. Sam began shooting on the side and soon started making more money working on weekends and vacations than he was in his day job.
    Since he also was becoming disenchanted with that TV news job, he knew it was time to leave. How hard could it be, he thought, to do freelance full time and make a killing? He soon found out, and along the way, acquired a few tips that others might use to not make the same mistakes. Here's what he has to say:

    • Learning about business is essential to survival. I have a degree in communications and lots of worldly experiences, but the business world is a whole different animal. You'll need to learn about insurance, taxes, bonding, business plans, advertising, equipment purchases or leases, office space, phones, faxes, furniture, marketing, pricing, invoicing, bad debts, good demo reels, production schedules, contracts, the IRS, accounting, hiring freelance workers, firing freelance workers, security, and credit. It's no surprise that most small startups fail after a few years.
    • Working with a partner...or not. I started our company with a partner, thinking our skills complemented each other. Turns out we had conflicting ideas about how to run a business, and I ended up buying him out. Dissolving a partnership can be like getting a divorce. Partner up if you must, but be aware of the ramifications. Put your expectations in writing. Spell out the roles each partner will take, where the money will go, and be prepared to review the contract frequently.
    • Don't put all your eggs in one basket. When I started my business, I had one client that accounted for most of my work. It was great. I traveled around the United States, shot all kinds of neat stuff, edited to my heart's content, and enjoyed life in the freelance world. Two years later, the client's company got sold and everything stopped. I forgot to broaden my base and to do that marketing thing. I had to scramble to find some new clients. It took a couple of years until I felt comfortable again, but I learned a few things. One is that eggs-in-one-basket rule, and the other is that the time to do your marketing is when you're busy with the project that you're currently working on.
    • Figure out what kind of video production company you are. When I started out, I was going to offer to do anything at the highest possible level. I planned to shoot, write, and edit commercials, news, documentaries, corporate videos, sports, accident re-creations, school plays, weddings...well, no weddings, but just about anything else. My market was the world. And I could do it on film or video—I thought. It took a long time to discover who I was, but now I can say our mission statement in one sentence: We shoot high-end video for television networks, news magazine shows, and corporations, and we specialize in making people look good. After we figured that out, it was easier to focus our marketing and purchase the right equipment.
    • Create a demo reel. Your demo reel represents who and what you are. It is your most valuable marketing tool. There are plenty of views about what makes a good reel. My take is that you may have only 30 seconds to make a favorable impression. Why? I know of TV news directors who view aspiring reporters' demo reels—chock full of stories, on-camera stand-ups, and clever on-set repartee—for all of 30 seconds. That's all the time they need to make such important decisions. Make sure that you gear your reel for your target audience and have it quickly demonstrate your core values. Our reel has a fast-paced introduction with several shots of well-lit people, well- composed shots of a variety of subjects, and lively music. It includes a few graphics-laden segments and ends with contact information. It runs about seven and a half minutes. I like to watch it. And it has helped us get lots of jobs.
    • Educate your clients. When I meet a new client for the first time, I usually have to educate them about the steps involved with producing an effective video. It starts with identifying the audience members—their ages, educations, and preconceived attitudes about the subject. I then outline the dozen or so steps involved with most productions—concept, writing, storyboarding, casting, location scouting, crew, equipment, production shoot, narration, editing, graphics, and music.
    • Don't burn a client. If you make a mistake with some clients—bad lighting, poor composition, arriving late, faulty equipment, dead batteries—they might forgive you once. TV networks are less forgiving. One mistake and they won't come back.
    • Adapt to change because things will change. I try to stay up on the newest trends in equipment and technology, such as new recording formats and delivery systems. It's important to understand why they have been developed and how they change the way we do business. Many clients now ask about having their video streamed or converted to DVDs or CD-ROMs. High-definition formats are now being offered at the high-end and low-end. New recording formats include hard drives, memory sticks, and re- recordable DVDs. As a means to stay current, subscribe to technology magazines and join an industry organization such as the International Television Association for its conferences and seminars. View the work of others to see what kind of competition you might be facing and what kind of markets you might be missing.
    • Deciding what to charge. For the high end of the video production market, it's easier to determine what to charge because TV networks, union contracts, and a universal fee schedule set the parameters for what the market will pay. In the television news, news magazine, and corporate worlds, using broadcast Betacam SP cameras, professional audio equipment, extensive lighting, and grip equipment and being backed by 15 to 20 years of experience, a two-person crew, consisting of a camera person and audio tech, can get between $1,200 to $1,500 for a 10-hour day. You can charge additional fees for the use of a wide-angle lens, matte box with filters, HMI or daylight-balanced lighting, and other production tools. Beginning photographers can usually charge $200 to $350 a day plus $150 to $200 for a mini-DV camera, a small lighting package, and a selection of microphones.
    • Consider working for someone else. It's easier and much less expensive to work for the kind of company you would like to become. Get your experience with another production company that has its own equipment and clients. Perfect your techniques and broaden your knowledge by working for someone else. Then, as you understand the market and maybe find your niche, you can branch off on your own with a better understanding of the business and where your market might be. Our company is always looking for a photographer with a good eye as well as audio techs, gaffers, grips, teleprompter operators, writers, producers, and just about anyone else who can help make us look good.

    http://www.samspublishing.com/articles/article.asp?p=169588&seqNum=5&rl=1


     Adjusting The Back Focus of a Lens
    In most cases, changing a lens will not require adjusting the back focus. But when a lens does not hold focus at both ends of the zoom range, you may need to adjust the back focus. By adjusting the back focus, you are changing the distance of between the pick-up device and the rear element of the lens. Technically, it's the distance from the vertex of the rearmost element of the lens to the focal plane, but we'll keep it simple. Note that not all lenses have a back focus adjustment.
    The Steps
    Before starting, put the camera on a tripod and adjust your camera's viewfinder so it is in sharp focus. Ideally, you'd want a test pattern chart (looks like a dart board) to be at least 75 feet from the camera. Otherwise, as far as possible. If you don't have a test chart, Use a page from a magazine.

    1. Set the iris to manual.
    2. Set the zoom to manual.
    3. Open the iris to 1.4 or its widest aperture. If the illumination on the test chart is too bright for the open iris, reduce the light or move the chart to a darker area.
    4. Turn the zoom barrel to extreme telephoto.
    5. Focus on the chart.
    6. Set the zoom to wide angle.
    7. Loosen the back focus ring retaining knob.
    8. Adjust the back focus ring for the sharpest focus.
    9. Repeat steps 4 through 8 until focus is consistently sharp.

    When it is focused, tighten the back focus ring retaining knob to secure the ring.
    Note: Most lenses are at their sharpest focus at about a middle iris position like F5.6.


    Movement
    The trick is to keep the vertical movement as steady as possible and to set your viewfinder before you start shooting. If you're working with a camcorder that has a flip-out LCD screen, by all means use it. Try to position the screen so that you can keep the framing in sight throughout the entire shot. If, for example, you're shooting a person's foot and moving up the body to end on the face, here's how to approach it. Frame up a nicely composed shot to start and check for clear focus. Since you're starting at almost ground level in this example, begin from a bended knee position with the camera directly in front of you, elbows resting just above your knees. Slowly lift the camera with your arms and then begin to stand as you rise up through the shot. Keep your elbows tucked in as close to your body as is possible and practical, to help keep things steady until you reach your end position.

    This move could be great at a wedding to reveal a bride's dress. An example of linking subjects with this move might be starting on a full-screen shot of a house For Sale sign and then doing a pedestal up to reveal the home behind it.

    Keep on Truckin': The Truck Move

    In a trucking move, you, the tripod and the camera pick up and move to the left or right. This move is great for following or creating a stronger sense of action. Let's say you're shooting someone jogging. If you just pan the camera to follow the runner, you'd need to be on a pretty wide shot, and there would be a pretty significant change in the backgrounds and perspective as you follow the subject left or right. It also isn't as dramatic. Set up a trucking shot, and you'll see the difference. Choose a distance from the runner, let's say you want to keep him full-body throughout the shot, and set up alongside of him with good focus. Unless you've rented or purchased a Steadicam or some other kind of stabilizing gear, if you actually jog beside the subject yourself, the video will likely be unusable. You need some wheels! Without going to great expense, you can use an automobile, a wheelchair or a child's wagon to provide your motion. Whatever you choose, be sure you have a partner to get you moving and keep you safe and stable while you're shooting. If possible, start moving the camera first, then cue your subject to start running. Settle on a comfortable speed and nice framing. Lead room is important in trucking shots. Give the subject some space between his or her nose and the edge of your frame so it looks like you're leading them and not trying to play catch-up. If you don't like the profile you get from trucking right alongside the subject, pick up some speed and get ahead a bit. This allows you to see more of the runner's face and changes up the background for some interest.

    Taking Flight: The Flying Camera

    The flying camera move gives you an opportunity to take your viewer on a ride. Think of this as taking on the point of view of an insect moving in and around subjects. I started using this type of move when my oldest child was a toddler. Fly around at kid-level to make the viewer more an active part of the child's world. Of course, it works for shooting adults, too.

    Let's say you want to capture some treasured moments of a child eating in a highchair. You might hold your camera at your waist with arms tucked into your stomach for stability. Begin the shot from behind the child, showing someone feeding the little one, then arc around the chair to the front. For more action, you could begin with the camera held high, coming down and around the chair. The opportunities with this one are endless. Picture a table with a great spread of food. The camera starts high, taking in most of the table from above, then sweeps camera down and runs the length of the table, flying past all of the treats. For a smooth move and good focus throughout the move, it works best with the lens zoomed out wide.

    Guud Eeevening: The Hitchcock Zoom
    This move is one of the most dramatic, and it requires a bit of practice. Alfred Hitchcock made use of this camera move, and the film Jaws used a similar version of it. When done well, this move gives the appearance that the main subject is stationary as the background crashes in or flies away. Set the shot up by framing the subject with the lens zoomed out wide. Begin to dolly away from the subject as you simultaneously zoom in to keep the subject the same size in the frame. The optics of the lens provide a unique look. Timing is important here in matching the dolly speed with the zoom, but when it all works it leaves a very dramatic impression with a viewer. Try the reverse, as well, by dollying in while zooming out. Great moves with powerful results.

    Walkin' the Walk: The Walking Shot

    This is a favorite of mine because it's easy to execute and adds zip to a normally dry shot. Rather than a static shot of your subjects walking, move with them. For a shot of two people passing by from behind, hold your camera about waist-level with a wide lens and begin to walk ahead of your subjects. Cue your subjects to start walking and overtake you, entering the frame from behind, one on either side, and continue walking away. The reverse of this would be for you to begin walking backwards, cueing your subjects to walk toward you, passing you on either side as they exit your shot. You can give this last one an even more interesting perspective by zooming out as you walk backward.

  • Unlike still photographers, videographers can move their cameras to create action or cover several focal points in a single shot. This means your composition - what you choose to include in a shot and where you choose to put it - will change as you move. It may help to think of every move that you make in three distinct parts.
  • Beginning Composition. This is where the shot begins. Choose carefully what to include in your scene and how to arrange it all for good balance. Identify this composition before rolling tape.
  • End Composition. This is where the camera comes to rest. Again, identify this composition before you start recording and try to achieve a good overall balance in the shot.
  • The Bridge. This is the camera move that connects the beginning shot with the end position. Practice the moves you intend to do as much as possible. Work to make the move smooth, maintaining good composition and focus. You may shoot a move several times adjusting the speed of the bridge for editing options.

  • [Sidebar: Shoot Like an Editor]
    This old adage is good to remember while shooting. It'll be of great help during editing if you think through all of the possible uses of what you record as you plan your shots. This means if you're doing a camera move, record it several times at several speeds. If you've recorded some fast moves and a few slower versions, you've covered your needs for whatever pace you use in the final production. It's always a good idea to record a version of the shot without a camera move, just in case. You may find when editing that you don't have time for a camera move after all, and trying to freeze a shot - extracting a still frame from a moving shot - may not provide the quality you're looking for.

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NATIONAL & STATE LEVEL AWARDS:

 
1999 - THE VIDEOGRAPHER AWARDS - Award of Excellence - "Survival", Chester Boot, Videographer/Editor
1999 - TELLY AWARDS - Winner - "Cutting Edge", Today's Headlines, Editor
1999 - TELLY AWARDS - Finalist - "Survival", Chester Boot, Videographer/Editor
1999 - TELLY AWARDS - Finalist - "Image SE MI", Comcast, Writer/Producer/Videographer//Editor/VO
1997 - GOLDEN GOBO AWARDS - Winner, (Best Comcast Spot Nation Wide.), "Survival", Video/ Editor
1995 - TELLY AWARDS - Winner - "It's My Car", Saturn of Southgate, Writer/Producer/Interviewer/Editor
1987 - Michigan Safety Council - 2nd Place - "Bomb Threats & Search Techniques", Mercy, Dir./Editor/Writer
1985 - American Hospital Assoc. - 1st Place -"Silently, Lovingly ....", CO-Producer/Director/Editor/Camera 
1972 - ADDY - Amer. Advertising Federation of Florida - 1st Place- Radio,"Great Expectations" Writer/Talent
 
 
 
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Telly Awards
Gobo Award
Comcast Golden GOBO Award